Last week I received one of the more random assignments of my career. The NY Post asked me to try and get some photos inside the Killeen strip club Maj. Hasan was reported to have visited in the days before his shooting rampage.
As predicted, I was unable to get inside. So, the Post ran a shot from outside.
Thanks to Rebecca Davis for snapping a tearsheet pic for me.
Brooklyn, New York
Dumbo, Brooklyn, New York
Amman, Jordan
Abdoun Bridge, Amman, Jordan
Apparently my swim/hike/climb through Wadi Mujib was a bit too much for my Columbia watch that is supposed to me waterproof.
Jabbal Amman, Amman, Jordan
Jerusalem, Israel/Palestine
This photo is at the North-Eastern corner of the Old Jerusalem wall.
This is where my shuttle from the Allenby/King Hussein Border crossing picked up. That part of the Old city is the Arab Quarter and the streets along that part of the wall felt more like other Arab cities than Israeli. All of the signs were only in Arabic and most of the women wore the Islamic Hijab which surprised me when I first arrived. But, just a mile or so walk took me into areas that had signs exclusively in Hebrew and felt like any city in Europe of America. I could see how having so many cultures in such a small area would lead to friction.
As my time in the Middle East is drawing to a close, I decided to brave the border crossing into the Palestinian West Bank from Jordan to visit the State of Israel (I was delayed for questioning for three hours). My journey had two purposes. One was to see Jerusalem and the other was to visit a house in the town of Ramla.
The house and the lemon tree in the backyard had been the center of a book I read entitled The Lemon Tree by Sandy Tolan.
The book is an exceptional tool for understanding the perspectives of both the Palestinians and Israelis in a fair and even context. Tolan tells the story of a home built by Arabs and then used by Jews. I highly recommend reading this book if you want to understand the current conflict in a deeper way.
** Spoiler Alert: Do not read further if you intend to read the book. **
My journey to Ramle started as Bashir Khairi's did, at the Jerusalem Central Bus Station (Though I think the current station is new).
I arrived in Ramle/Al Ramla after passing the Israeli War Vehicle Memorial and the town of Latrun just as described in the book.
I had no idea how to navigate the city and no one seemed to know where Dalia's Open house at 1 Klausner Street was. So, I asked people where the Old Town was and found it in under an hour. I imagined that this poorly tended ruin was the main Khairi Family compound.
I do mean nobody knew of the Open House or Klausner Street. I found someone who knew English in the Old Town and he was happy to actually use his Blackberry GPS to find it for me...
I could have done this on my phone except the Google Maps for my phone did not have maps for Ramla. Here is the house on the real Google Maps.
After more wandering and asking for help I finally found the Open House. Ironically, it was closed and locked. But, I did get to see the gate that once held the crescent ornament that Dalia later regretted tearing down.
The building that serves as the school seemed smaller than I expected.
If I had gone south instead of north from where the bus dropped me off on Herzl Boulevard I would have gone straight to the house. My bus had actually driven right by the house and turned at this corner. I even think I had looked at this sign while imaging how Bashir felt when he saw Jewish names on his once Arab streets. Total navigation fail. :)
In true journalist/stalker fashion I went around back to try and see the lemon tree over the wall. I spotted this post which I think may be the site of the original tree. The Arabic reads "Peace for all the World".
As best I can tell, one of these two trees in the corner of the yard is the new lemon tree planted at the end of the book. I didn't have the guts to jump the wall to figure out exactly which one was a lemon tree. :)
I saw this poster at the Open House's intersection as I entered town. The troublesome historic realities of the forced removal of most of the Arabs of Al Ramla that this sign ignores was just horrifying to me.
The trip across the West Bank and the State of Israel was very educational for me. I saw many things that factor into the conflict in this land: the old historic sights of Old Jerusalem, the modern streets of Jerusalem, the growing Israeli barriers and the controversial Jewish West Bank settlements. I can't imagine what it would be like to be from this land and to attempt to navigate living within an uncertain security situation everyday.
I had lunch at a Falafel Sandwich place on Al Rainbow Street in Jabal Amman.
It was super cheap at 40 Piastres for a 'regular' and then 35 P for a Pepsi.
The sandwich was very good. I probably could have eaten two and been very stuffed. I highly recommend this place!
Giza, Egypt
June 2009
Museum of Islamic Art
Doha, Qatar
June 2009
My Jordanian Cellphone is +972 79 541 2271
Amman, Jordan
As I adventured about Amman in the unusually pleasant weather today, I happened upon a high-rise construction site on the western edge of the Abdoun area. The buildings will be called Limitless and are being built by a Emirati company.
The chosen site is remarkable since there are no other high-rises in the area.
Amman is not really known for dense glass tower gardens as can be seen in this view west over the site from Abdoun.
I was struck by the poster's claims of 4 basements for the 200 meter structures. This building, when finished, will very much change the character of the Amman skyline as much as the Royal Amman Hotel (currently the tallest structure).
OK... Maybe a little too much of my opinion in this shot.
One can only hope that the city planners know what that are doing when they allow these types of developments. They already regulate the color of stones one is allowed to build homes with. I would hope glass towers are only permitted with a similar level of scrutiny.
I attended a screening of several short films from the Al Beidha Life Project at the Jordanian Royal Film Commission. The project looked at several issues affecting the people of Al Beidha who live near a Nabatean site called Little Petra. The locals want the same level of development that draws tourists to Petra and benefits the town of Wadi Musa.
Part of the project introduced the town's children to the internet, blogging, video cameras and video editing tools.
The RFC was a highlight of my first trip to Amman in June and it was high on my list of places to revisit. So, I was thrilled to be able to attend a screening at their amazing outdoor theater. The view from Jabal Amman as a backdrop to any film creates an unbelievable experience.
The RFC's mission is to develop the film industry in Jordan by providing training to local film makers. They offer workshops and have gear that can be checked out for legitimate projects. They also have a library of movies which can be viewed onsite in a special area of single-seater Mac stations (Pic Later). I am looking forward to the opening of the coffee shop that is slated for a space under their parking garage. :)
Many thanks to @alltough for letting me know that the screening was happening.
Addendum: Here are some photos from my previous tour of the RFC in June.
Here are some of the very interesting single seat viewing stations.
A small portion of the video viewing library. The selection avoids the normal Hollywood fair.
The back of the historic building the RFC inhabits.
The outdoor theater before dark with the screen retracted. During screenings they deploy chair backs.
The RFC's Capacity Building Manager Mohannad Bakri (left) gave our press trip group a tour of their facility. He seemed very energized to create collaborative relationships with almost anyone who is serious about film making. Also shown Andrew Smith (middle) from the Univeristy of Maryland and Maggie Fazeli Fard (right) from UC Berkley.
